Turf Removal + Soil Preparation in Palm Beach County
Before New Sod Goes Down, the Base Has to Be Right.
Most lawn failures trace back to what was — or wasn’t — done before installation. We strip out the old turf, fix grade, break up compaction, and build a proper soil base so new sod actually has somewhere to root.
Why the base matters
New sod on a bad base is just a delayed failure.
Chronic weeds, persistent bumps, soft spots, and lawns that keep declining year after year — these aren’t maintenance problems. They’re foundation problems. This service removes what’s failing, corrects what’s underneath, and gives new turf an honest shot at establishing right and performing long-term.
Turf removal & haul-off
Strip old sod and thatch completely and export it offsite. Leaving contaminated material under new turf is how weed pressure and disease carry forward — so we don’t.
Grade correction
Low spots, uneven transitions, and poor pitch away from structures don’t fix themselves. We reshape the surface for proper drainage and eliminate the soft areas that turn into chronic problem zones.
Compaction relief
Compacted soil is one of the main reasons new sod roots shallow and struggles. Tilling and power raking open the profile so roots can actually get down into the ground.
Topsoil & amendments
Screened topsoil and sand blended with compost, adjusted for pH with lime or sulfur, and treated with micronutrients and wetting agents where the soil profile calls for it.
Irrigation-ready finish
Heads raised and leveled to match the new grade, coverage verified so seams and edges stay hydrated from day one — not an afterthought.
Sod-ready handoff
A smooth, rolled, installation-ready surface handed off clean — or we schedule sod the same day when bundled together.
How it works
The Removal + Soil Prep Process, Step by Step
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Site walk & measurements ~30–60 min
Walk every area of the property, measure square footage, identify low spots and drainage issues, confirm equipment access, and check irrigation head height and coverage before anything gets touched.
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Turf removal & haul-off
Strip existing sod and thatch down to bare soil and export the material completely offsite. No old contaminated layers buried under the new base.
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Rough grade
Shape the surface for drainage, correct low spots and soft areas, and establish clean transitions to hardscape edges and planting beds.
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Compaction relief
Till and power rake 3–6″ where site conditions allow — enough to open the profile and let roots penetrate without pulling subsoil material up to the surface.
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Topsoil blend & amendments
Bring in screened topsoil and sand blended with compost; dial in pH with lime or sulfur; add micronutrients and wetting agent where indicated by the soil profile.
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Fine grade & roll
Level, smooth, and roll the surface so it’s flat and consistent — then set crisp edges so the base is ready for installation without gaps or transitions that’ll cause problems later.
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Irrigation set & check
Raise and level heads to match the new grade, then run the system and verify coverage so seams and edges stay hydrated from the moment sod goes down.
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Sod-ready handoff
Clean handoff to your sod installer — or same-day installation when bundled with us. Either way, the base is done right and ready to go.
What goes into the work
Standard Specification
| Item | What we do |
|---|---|
| Turf removal | Full strip of existing sod and thatch layer — contaminated material and embedded weed pressure come out completely, not buried. |
| Haul-off | Removed material is loaded and exported offsite. Site is left clean before grading and soil work begins. |
| Soil profiling | Texture assessment and basic pH check; amendments for lime, sulfur, and micronutrients recommended based on what the soil actually shows. |
| Topsoil | Screened topsoil/sand blend with compost added for organic matter — typically 10–30% by volume depending on site conditions. |
| Compaction relief | Till and power rake 3–6″ where feasible; care taken to avoid mixing subsoil material up into the surface layer. |
| Amendments | Lime or sulfur for pH correction, micronutrient package, and wetting agent applied where soil shows hydrophobic behavior. |
| Grade & drainage | Surface pitched away from structures; transitions feathered to hardscape and bed edges; low spots corrected. |
| Edges/finish | Fine grade, roll, and crisp edges throughout; debris cleared; site left clean and ready for immediate sod installation. |
| Irrigation | Heads raised and leveled to the new grade; quick coverage run to verify; controller program established if sod installation follows. |
Questions we hear a lot
Removal + Soil Prep FAQs
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Does the old turf always need to be removed?
Not always. If the existing base is clean, stable, and free of contamination, prep work can happen without a full strip. Removal makes the most sense when the lawn has significant weed or thatch buildup, persistent disease, or needs a true foundation reset — not just a refresh on top of the same problems.
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Do you haul the old turf away?
Yes. When removal is part of the scope, the stripped material gets loaded and exported completely offsite. The goal is a clean, consistent base — not old contaminated layers compressed underneath new sod.
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Can you prep the soil without installing the sod?
Absolutely. We can prepare the base and hand it off cleanly to another installer, or schedule sod with us on the same day — whatever makes more sense for the project.
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How deep do you till?
Typically 3–6″ depending on what the site allows. The goal is enough depth to relieve compaction and let roots penetrate, without pulling subsoil material up into the surface layer where it causes its own problems.
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Will this fix bumps and standing water?
Grade work directly addresses low spots, uneven transitions, and poor drainage pitch. If the property needs more significant drainage solutions beyond what grading can correct, we’ll identify that during the site walk and be upfront about what’s needed.
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What happens to the irrigation system during prep?
Heads get raised and leveled to match the new grade, then coverage is verified by running the system. Establishment is one of the most critical windows for new sod — edge and seam dryout during the first few weeks is a real problem, so irrigation gets confirmed before handoff.
Stop putting new sod on old problems.
We’ll strip out what’s failing, fix the grade, break up compaction, and build the right soil base — so new turf actually establishes and stays that way.