What separates us is what happens before and after the sod goes down.
Full-service means more than installing the sod. Site assessment, soil testing and amendments, leveling and grading, cultivar matched to your site, vegetation removal and soil prep, fresh topsoil, and an irrigation wet check before we quote. Then irrigation management, fertilization, biostimulants, micronutrients, pest and disease prevention, and weekly concierge check-ins through establishment. Most installs skip this. What makes a lawn last is the before and the after.
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We start with what’s already there.
The walk-through is a real assessment, not a sales call. Thirty to forty-five minutes on-site, with soil samples, irrigation testing, and drainage mapping. The result is a one-page report that tells you exactly what your site needs, whether that’s a full renovation, a fresh install, or a treatment program. Sometimes the right answer is to hold off entirely. That’s a recommendation too.
Site assessment
Thirty to forty-five minutes on-site, walking every zone of the yard with you. Sun and shade patterns, drainage behavior, problem areas, traffic patterns, what’s already growing and how it’s doing. The site itself tells us most of what we need to know, if you stop long enough to look.
Soil testing and amendments
Samples pulled from two or three representative spots and sent for analysis. pH, base saturation, organic matter, key nutrients. The results decide what amendments your soil actually needs, calibrated to your site’s chemistry rather than a regional average.
Leveling and grading
The single most common reason new sod fails is grading that wasn’t corrected before install. We level low spots, smooth high ones, and shape the grade so water moves the way it should, away from the house, away from puddling areas, and through the root zone evenly.
Choosing the right cultivar for the site
Sun, shade, traffic, drainage, and how the yard actually gets used. We match a cultivar to your site instead of installing what’s on the truck. The wrong grass in the right install will still fail. The right cultivar makes everything else easier.
Vegetation removal and soil prep
Existing turf, weeds, and roots removed cleanly, not just scraped or sprayed. The soil underneath tilled and conditioned so the new sod has something to root into. Pre-emergent applied to clear out the existing weed seed bank before anything new goes down.
Irrigation wet check
Every zone run while we watch it. Head coverage, throw distance, pressure, zone logic, run-time. We catch broken heads, mixed-head zones, and gaps that would dry out a new install before it has a chance to root. Adjustments and recommendations happen before the sod, not after.
Fresh topsoil added where needed
South Florida soils are sandy and depleted in most spots. Where the test shows it’s warranted, we add fresh, screened topsoil to give the roots something to actually grow into. A lawn rooted in good soil holds up. A lawn rooted in sand fights uphill from the start.
The work that lasts starts with knowing what you’re working with, and not skipping anything underneath. That’s what the walk-through is for.
We stay with the lawn after we lay it.
The install is one day. The establishment period is six weeks. The relationship that keeps your lawn healthy runs for years. We treat the after as carefully as the before, because that’s where most lawns get lost.
Irrigation setup and management
The new install gets watered on a schedule built for establishment, not maintenance. Long, deep cycles that push roots down. Multiple short bursts during the first two weeks. We adjust the controller, set the schedule, and walk you through what to expect day by day so the system is actually doing what the lawn needs.
Fertilization on your soil data
The same soil test that informed the install informs the fertility program after. Slow-release nitrogen for sustained feed, chelated iron when pH is blocking uptake, calibrated to your site rather than a national blend. Timed for South Florida’s actual seasons, with the summer fertilizer blackout (June through September) respected.
Biostimulants: sea kelp and humic acid
Sea kelp extracts and humic acid feed the soil biology rather than the plant directly. They build root mass, improve nutrient uptake, and help the turf recover from heat and drought stress faster. Not every install company uses them. They should. Healthy soil biology is what separates a lawn that performs from one that just survives.
Micronutrients for color and density
Iron, manganese, magnesium, and the trace elements South Florida soils run short on. Applied based on what your soil test actually shows is missing, not a one-size-fits-all spray. The deep, even green that holds through summer comes from micronutrients, not more nitrogen.
Disease and pest prevention
Chinch bugs hit fast. Large patch spreads overnight after a wet week. Sod webworms can defoliate a lawn in days. We scout every visit, treat preventatively where the climate calls for it, and intervene with the lightest touch that solves the problem. Prevention beats reaction every time, and it costs less.
Weekly concierge check-ins during establishment
For the first six weeks, when the lawn is most vulnerable, someone from our crew is on your property every week. Visual inspection, irrigation check, early intervention if anything looks off. You don’t have to know what to look for. We do. That’s what we’re there for.
Sod is a one-day event. A healthy lawn is what you have a year later. We build for the second one.
Install, renovate, or treat. The walk-through decides.
Every site is its own conversation. The walk-through tells us which path fits yours. Sometimes that’s a fresh install on bare ground. Sometimes it’s a full renovation of a failing lawn. Sometimes it’s a treatment program for a lawn that’s mostly there. Occasionally the right answer is to leave things alone for six weeks and re-check. Whichever it is, the recommendation is built for your site, not a package we sell everybody.
Lawn Renovations
Whether you’re starting on bare ground after construction, replacing a lawn that’s past saving, or putting sod down for the first time, the process is the same. We prep the site properly, correct what’s underneath, and lay fresh-cut Florida-grown sod the way it should be done. The difference between a sod job that holds up and one that thins out in a season is almost entirely in the prep, and that’s where most of the work happens.
What this covers
- Fresh installs on bare ground after construction, pool work, or hardscape removal
- Full replacement of a failed or thinning lawn that’s past treating
- Grading and drainage correction for standing water or persistent dry zones
- Switching to a grass variety that actually fits the site
- Soil prep and amendment for compacted, depleted, or mismatched soil
How we do it
- We pull soil samples from two or three spots, run pH and base saturation, and map drainage over a full rain cycle before we quote anything.
- We amend to target pH with sulfur or lime, regrade the low spots, and put down pre-emergent to clear out the existing weed seed bank.
- We lay fresh-cut Florida-grown sod within 24 hours of harvest. Tight seams. Rolled for full soil contact. Watered in the same day.
Treatment Programs
If the bones are good, meaning the turf is established and the foundation underneath it works, what your lawn needs is a program built on its own soil data, not a national calendar designed for Atlanta or Dallas. We feed what your soil actually shows it needs, and we time pre-emergent for Palm Beach County, where the windows are different. The visits stay consistent, and over time that’s most of what makes the difference.
What we’re correcting
- Chronic yellowing and slow recovery from pH imbalance
- Recurring weed pressure and thinning density
- Heat stress and seasonal transitions that hit South Florida hard
- Pest and disease pressure that needs early intervention
- Lawns that need a real plan with consistent follow-through
How we do it
- We start with a full soil test (pH, base saturation, organic matter) so every application we make has a reason behind it.
- We fertilize for what your turf actually needs: slow-release nitrogen for sustained feed, chelated iron when pH is blocking uptake.
- We time pre-emergent for Palm Beach County (late winter and fall), respect the summer fertilizer blackout (June through September), and scout every visit for early pest and disease.
Six varieties. One fits your yard.
All six are Florida-grown and fresh-cut from farms we work with directly. The work is matching the right one to your soil, your light, and how the yard actually gets used, which is what the walk-through is for.
Palmetto
Best forYards with a mix of sun and dappled shade. Takes afternoon tree cover well and fills in naturally.
CitraBlue
Best forProperties with mature oak canopy or persistent shade where nothing else has held up.
Bimini
Best forOpen, sunny front yards with families. Built for kids, pets, and heavy foot traffic year-round.
Celebration
Best forBig sunny backyards that take real abuse. Near athletic-turf durability for homes with pets or sports.
CitraZoy
Best forRefined lawns with partial shade. Dense and fine-bladed, with a tailored look you can spot from the street.
Empire
Best forHomeowners who want the look of zoysia without the fuss. Forgiving and tough.
What our neighbors actually said.
Pulled live and unedited. The picture they paint of how we work is more honest than anything we could write about ourselves, so we let it speak for itself. Read the long ones, read the short ones, and especially read the ones from yards down the street from yours.
Written for the climate you actually live in.
All of it written for Palm Beach County: the soil you have, the heat that’s coming, the pests already at your door. Irrigation timing, weed pressure, disease prevention, seasonal shifts. None of it copy-pasted from anywhere else, and none of it written for a different climate.
The common ones, answered straight.
Don’t see your question below? Reach out using any of the options at the bottom of the page. We usually reply within a business day, and your question goes to a person, not a queue.
What’s the most common reason a Palm Beach County lawn fails?
Almost always, it’s something that went wrong before the sod was laid, or something that got skipped after. Failed installs usually come down to a missing soil test, no grading correction, or no pre-install weed work. Lawns that decline after a good install usually come down to watering on a schedule that doesn’t match the soil, mowing too short, or fertility built on a national calendar instead of South Florida’s actual seasons.
The thread connecting all of those is that the lawn itself isn’t where the problem lives. The problem is in the work that happens around the lawn, which is why we put so much weight on the before and after.
What if I’m starting from scratch, not fixing a problem?
Fresh installs are some of the most satisfying work we do, and the methodology is the same. Whether you’re building new, finishing up after a pool or hardscape project, or putting in a lawn where there’s never been one, the walk-through still starts with the soil. Test results, drainage mapping, sun and shade assessment, irrigation review. The recommendation that comes out of that tells us which variety fits the site, what amendments the soil needs, and what the install will actually take.
Starting from scratch is in some ways an advantage. There’s no failing lawn to work around, no history to undo. Just the chance to do it right from the first pass.
Why does my newly installed sod keep dying?
Almost always, it’s the install that was wrong, not the sod. Air gaps between pieces, uneven subgrades, no pre-install weed kill, sod laid right on top of whatever was already there. Any one of those is enough to set the whole job up to fail, and most failed installs have more than one going on at once.
No amount of fertilizer fixes a bad foundation. The good news is that once you know what actually happened, the fix is straightforward, and we can usually tell you what went wrong in the first ten minutes of a walk-through.
Why is my St. Augustine yellow even after fertilizing?
If you’ve put time and money into fertilizer and the lawn still looks tired, it’s almost certainly a pH problem, not a nitrogen one. South Florida soils run alkaline, which chemically locks iron, manganese, and zinc out of the plant. The nutrients are right there in the soil. The grass just can’t get to them.
Sandy soil makes it worse, flushing whatever you apply straight through the root zone before the plant has a chance to use it. The fix is the same most of the time: test the soil, correct the pH, build organic matter. Then the fertilizer actually does what you paid for.
How often should I water my lawn in South Florida?
Less often than most people think, deeper when you do, and earlier in the day than feels right. For most South Florida lawns, that comes out to two or three sessions a week, around ¾ to 1 inch of water total, running before sunrise.
Daily watering trains roots to stay shallow, which is exactly the environment fungal disease wants. Afternoon watering leaves turf wet overnight, and large patch loves that. Drought-stressed turf is a welcome sign for chinch bugs, which hit fast and hard. The right schedule for your yard depends on the turf, the soil, and the irrigation system, and dialing that in is one of the first things we look at on a walk-through.
Why does mowing damage my Florida lawn so badly?
Almost always, it comes down to one of three things: cut too short, cut too often, or cut with a dull blade. St. Augustine wants to be cut at 3.5 to 4 inches with a sharp blade, never more than a third of the blade height in a single pass. Cut it shorter than that, even once, and you’ve removed the tissue the lawn needs to recover. Scalping invites weeds. Mowing wet drags fungal spores from one end of the yard to the other. Dull blades tear instead of cutting cleanly, which is an open invitation for disease.
If you hire someone to handle your mowing, it’s worth asking what height they cut at and how often they sharpen their blades. If they don’t know, you have your answer.
Do I need a full renovation, or can my lawn be treated?
If the foundation is sound, meaning workable soil, the right grass for the site, and decent drainage, treatment can usually bring a struggling lawn back to healthy. If the install was bad to begin with, the variety doesn’t fit, or damage has gone too far, treatment alone won’t catch up, and you’re better off starting over.
The walk-through tells us which camp you’re in. Sometimes the right answer is, “leave it alone for six weeks and we’ll re-check.” That’s a perfectly valid answer, and we’d rather give it than sell you something you don’t actually need.
Let’s figure out what your lawn actually needs.
Most homeowners we meet have already been sold something before anyone looked at their soil. We do it the other way around. Thirty to forty-five minutes on-site, real samples pulled from your yard, a real look at your irrigation, and a clear answer on whether your lawn needs a full rebuild or just some dialing in. It’s usually the cheapest conversation you’ll have about your yard, and the most useful.
- On-site with you, walking every zone of the yard
- Soil samples pulled from two or three representative spots
- Irrigation wet check, with every zone run while we watch it
- Cultivar identification, plus pest and disease scouting
- A one-page assessment with a clear recommendation: renovate, install, treat, or hold
Prefer to write it out?
Tell us a little about the lawn. What you’re seeing, what’s already been tried, and what’s been frustrating about it. We’ll come back with a straight answer on what we’re looking at, usually within a business day.