Are you ready to give your lawn a fresh start? In South Florida, warm-season grasses like St. Augustine, Bermuda, and Zoysia thrive in our tropical climate. But when a lawn becomes tired, patchy, or overrun with weeds, simply laying new sod on top isn’t the best solution. Enter the fallowing process – a short period (usually 2-3 weeks) where you prepare and “rest” your lawn area before installing fresh sod. In this friendly guide, we’ll walk you through what fallowing is, why it’s so beneficial (especially for warm-season lawns), the ideal timing in South Florida, and a step-by-step plan to do it right.
What Is Fallowing?
Fallowing means letting the ground lie “idle” or unplanted for a period of time so it can recover or be properly prepared for new planting. In agriculture, farmers have long used fallowing to rejuvenate soil and control weeds by leaving a field unplanted for a season or more. In a home lawn context, fallowing usually involves removing or killing off any existing grass and weeds, then waiting a short period before replanting (sodding). Essentially, you’re giving your yard a brief break from actively growing turf. During this break, you can tackle issues that would otherwise plague your new sod – things like persistent weeds, old roots, pests, or diseases lingering in the soil. Think of fallowing as hitting the reset button on your lawn. For our purposes, we’re talking about short-term fallowing (about 2-3 weeks) – just enough time to clear out the old, ensure the bad stuff is gone, and get the area ready for a healthy new lawn. (Yes, there’s also long-term fallowing, which we’ll mention later, but most homeowners won’t need to leave a lawn bare for that long.)
In practical terms, “fallowing your lawn” means you’ll intentionally have a temporary brown, bare yard – on purpose! Don’t worry, it’s for a good cause. During those weeks, you’ll be busy improving the soil and making sure any hidden trouble (weeds or insects) is taken care of before the new sod arrives. When done right, fallowing sets the stage for your sod to thrive from day one.
What Are the Benefits of Fallowing?
You might be wondering, “Is fallowing really necessary? What do I gain by waiting a few weeks with a bare lawn?” It turns out fallowing offers several big benefits for your future grass:
Dramatic Weed Reduction
One of the top reasons to fallow is to get rid of weeds and undesirable grass species. By clearing the existing lawn and killing off weeds (and weed seeds as they sprout), you’re creating a clean slate. This means your new sod won’t have to compete with stubborn old weeds or invasive grasses like Bermuda or torpedograss trying to make a comeback. If you’ve ever had crabgrass or dollarweed pop right through new sod, you know how frustrating that is – fallowing helps prevent that by eradicating those troublemakers now.
Healthier Soil for New Roots
When you remove old vegetation and let soil breathe a bit, you’re giving it a chance to recover nutrients and moisture. Even a short fallow period can help decompose leftover roots and thatch, adding a touch of organic matter to the soil. You can take this opportunity to till lightly or loosen the soil, making it easier for new sod roots to penetrate. Think of it as fluffing a pillow before putting on a fresh pillowcase – you’re making the soil soft and welcoming for new roots to grow deep.
Break Pest and Disease Cycles
If your previous lawn struggled with pests (like chinch bugs, grubs, or sod webworms) or diseases (like fungus), simply laying new sod won’t magically make those issues disappear. Fallowing gives you time to address underlying problems. Many lawn pests need living grass to survive – by clearing the lawn and keeping it bare briefly, you can starve out some pests or at least make it easier to treat them. Similarly, soil-borne diseases may subside when their host (grass) is removed. You should still treat any known pest or disease issues during this period (for example, apply an appropriate insecticide or fungicide if needed), but having no grass for a short time makes treatments more effective. As one sod grower put it, replacing sod without fixing the root problem is just inviting the issue to return. Fallow now, fewer headaches later.
Better Sod Establishment
A fallowed, weed-free site means all the water, nutrients, and care you provide will go straight to your new sod – not to leftover weeds or old grass. Your new lawn can establish faster and with less competition. Plus, when you’ve taken the time to rake up old debris and level the ground during fallowing, the sod will lie down nice and flat. This improves contact between the sod and soil, leading to quicker rooting and a smoother lawn surface (no lumps or bumps). In short, fallowing helps your new grass get off to a strong start, resulting in that lush, even carpet of green you’re dreaming of.
Long-Term Lawn Health
By doing the “dirty work” now for a few weeks, you set your lawn up for lower maintenance in the future. Fewer weeds from the get-go means less herbicide use later and less hand-pulling weeds. Removing old thatch and relieving compacted soil (if you till or aerate during fallow) means your lawn will have better drainage and deeper roots, which can reduce issues like fungus and make the grass more drought-tolerant. It’s an upfront investment of time that pays off with a healthier, hardier lawn that’s easier to care for.
Fallowing is all about prevention and preparation. It prevents the old problems from carrying over, and it prepares the ground for new sod to flourish. A little patience now leads to a beautiful, problem-free lawn later. If you’re replacing a warm-season grass lawn (St. Augustine, Bermuda, Zoysia, etc.), fallowing is one of the best gifts you can give your new grass.
When Is the Best Time to Fallow a Lawn in South Florida?
One of the great things about living in South Florida is that you can install warm-season sod almost year-round. Unlike cooler climates, our winters are mild and our warm-season grasses (like St. Augustine, Bermuda, and Zoysia) don’t go fully dormant. This means you have flexibility in scheduling a lawn renovation and fallow period. However, there are a few seasonal considerations to keep in mind to make the process smoother:
Dry Season (Fall and Winter)
The cooler months from about October through April are actually an excellent time to do a lawn replacement project here. During this period, grass growth slows a bit but doesn’t stop. Fallowing in fall/winter has a couple of advantages: milder temperatures and less daily rainfall. Your bare soil will be less prone to erosion or getting swamped by heavy rains, and it’s easier for you to work outside without the summer heat. Many experts say St. Augustine sod is ideally installed in the cooler, drier season (roughly October to May), so you would do the fallow prep just before that. Also, winter’s lower humidity and heat mean new sod experiences less transplant shock and disease pressure. If you fallow in late fall or winter, you’ll be ready to roll out fresh sod that can root in over the winter and explode with growth in spring.
Wet Season (Late Spring and Summer)
Late spring through summer (May through September) is South Florida’s rainy, hot season. Can you still fallow and sod a lawn in summer? Absolutely – it’s done all the time. In fact, Zoysia and Bermuda sod actually love the warmth and will establish quickest in the heat of summer. The key challenges are managing the rapid weed growth and heavy rain. If you choose a summer project, be prepared to monitor the bare ground closely for weeds – warm temperatures and frequent rain can germinate weed seeds fast (which actually helps you eliminate them, but you have to stay on top of it!). You might need an extra herbicide application (or a quick round with the weed trimmer) during the fallow period because everything grows faster in summer. Also, plan for erosion control if necessary – for example, avoid fallowing during a time when a tropical storm is expected, and consider using a light layer of straw mulch on slopes to protect soil from downpours. The upside of summer: your new sod will root lightning-fast with proper watering, and warm-season grasses are in their prime growing season.
Avoid Extreme Cold or Heat Spikes
While rare in South Florida, a hard freeze or an exceptionally hot/dry spell can stress your project. Try not to schedule your sod installation during a cold snap (below freezing) – the grass may be fine, but it won’t root until warmth returns. Similarly, if there’s a forecast for a week of 95°F days with no rain, you’ll need to water the bare soil to keep it from turning to concrete and to encourage weed seeds to sprout (so you can kill them). Generally, though, we don’t face the deep freezes of northern regions, so timing is more about convenience and typical weather.
In South Florida you have a broad window for lawn renovations. Many homeowners prefer fall or winter for comfort and control, giving new sod a head start before the summer growth spurt. Others take advantage of early spring’s pleasant weather or summer’s long daylight hours. Whenever you choose, just ensure you can dedicate a solid 2-3 week block for the fallowing process and another couple of weeks afterward for intensive sod care. Avoid the heart of hurricane season if possible, and keep an eye on the forecast. With a bit of planning, you can find the “golden window” that fits your schedule and sets your new lawn up for success.
Step-by-Step Guide to Fallowing Your Lawn (Prep for Sod)
Ready to roll up your sleeves? Let’s break down the step-by-step process to fallow your lawn in preparation for new sod. This guide focuses on a short-term fallow (about 2 to 3 weeks) suitable for warm-season grass lawns. We’ll include materials you might need and even some product recommendations that are commonly used in South Florida. The tone here is DIY-friendly – you can do this! Just be sure to follow any product labels for safety, especially since St. Augustine varieties – floratam, palmetto, Citrablue, ProVista, etc. – and other warm grasses can be sensitive to certain chemicals (we’ll point out what’s safe).
Step 1: Plan and Prep
Before you start nuking the grass, have a game plan. Mark your calendar for a roughly 2-week (or slightly longer) period when your lawn can be out of commission. Check the weather forecast for a stretch without major storms. Gather your materials in advance. Here’s what you might need:
Non-selective herbicide
This is key for killing the existing vegetation. Look for a product containing glyphosate as the active ingredient, which is safe to use for lawn renovation because it kills weeds and grass thoroughly but does not linger in the soil to harm new sod. A common choice is Roundup® (original formula) or any generic glyphosate 41% herbicide. Make sure it’s not “Roundup for Lawns,” which is a different product that won’t kill grass (it’s meant for weeds in lawns). You want the classic glyphosate that will kill everything. Many brands are available; just check the label for “glyphosate”. These are labeled for use in clearing lawn areas. Pro tip: Get a product that either includes a surfactant or buy a bottle of non-ionic surfactant to mix in – this helps the herbicide spread on those waxy grass blades and work better. Also, consider a dye marker to see where you spray (totally optional, but helpful).
Protective gear and tools
Safety first! Have gloves, long sleeves, and protective eyewear for handling herbicide. You’ll also need a sprayer (a pump-up garden sprayer or hose-end sprayer) to apply the herbicide evenly. If you have a large lawn, a backpack sprayer might save time. Also keep a garden hose handy (for watering later and for rinsing equipment). A lawn mower set to a low height will be used before spraying. And grab a steel rake, shovel, or hoe for later steps when removing dead thatch and leveling soil.
Optional materials
Depending on your lawn’s condition, you might want a sod cutter (you can rent one) if you plan to physically remove old sod. Not everyone does this, but if your lawn has a thick mat of runners or a history of invasive grass, cutting out the top layer after killing it ensures nothing comes back. Also, have some trash bags or wheelbarrow for hauling off debris, and topsoil or compost on hand if you’ll need to fill low spots after removing old sod. If a soil test indicates your soil needs lime or other amendments, you’d get those ready too (though applying those is usually right before sod installation, not during fallow).
Address underlying issues
Now is the time to think about why your old lawn failed. If chinch bugs or grubs wrecked your St. Augustine, consider buying an appropriate insecticide to apply during the fallow period. If you suspect fungal disease, you might get a fungicide. And if the area tends to stay wet, plan any drainage fixes now. It’s cheaper and easier to solve these issues before new sod goes down. For example, treat for grubs or chinch bugs while the lawn is bare, remove any buried construction debris, or install that French drain for a low spot now (refer to Step 3 in the superintendent’s list: installing drainage before you finish grade). Fallowing is the perfect chance to “fix the problem under the hood” so it doesn’t ruin your new grass later.
Step 2: Mow Low and Apply Herbicide
Time to say goodbye to the old lawn! Start by mowing your grass as short as possible (known as “scalping” the lawn). Drop that mower deck to the lowest setting and bag or rake up the clippings. This exposes as much of the grass and weed surface as you can, which helps the herbicide make good contact. Plus, it removes excess foliage so that when the grass dies it doesn’t smother the ground too thickly. After scalping and clearing away the cuttings, wait a day or two for any remaining foliage to recover (you want actively growing grass and weeds when you spray herbicide, for best uptake).
On a dry day with minimal wind, apply the non-selective herbicide over the entire lawn area you plan to re-sod. Follow the label directions carefully – typically, you’d mix a certain amount of concentrate per gallon of water in your sprayer, or use a ready-to-spray product. Ensure even coverage: you want to wet all the leaves of the grass and any weeds present, but not so much that it’s dripping off. If you added a surfactant, you’ll notice the spray coats the blades nicely rather than beading up. Be thorough, but avoid overspraying onto plants you want to keep (like landscape beds or your neighbor’s lawn) since glyphosate will damage those too. A piece of cardboard can be a handy shield for bordering plants while you spray near edges. Spray right up to the perimeter of the area and slightly beyond if weeds outside the project area might creep in.
Now, let the herbicide do its job. It typically takes about 5–7 days to see most of the grass and weeds turning brown and dying off (faster in hot weather, slower if cool or if plants were stressed). Be patient and do not till or remove the grass yet – you want the chemicals to translocate into the roots to kill everything thoroughly. Keep pets and kids off the treated area as recommended on the product label (usually until it’s dried). If the weather is dry, you might lightly water the lawn the next day – not enough to wash away the herbicide, just enough to keep the grass in an active growth mode so the herbicide keeps moving internally. (Avoid heavy rain within 24 hours of application if possible, so the spray isn’t washed off before it’s absorbed.)
Step 3: Wait, Water, and Reapply (if needed)
After the first herbicide application, you’ll have a week or two where the lawn is gradually browning out. This period is the core of the “fallow.” Resist the urge to immediately tear everything up. Instead, use this time to your advantage: encourage any remaining weed seeds to sprout. How? By adding a bit of water! Yes, it sounds counterintuitive to water a lawn you’re trying to kill, but the idea is to flush out the weeds. A few days after the initial spraying (once you see the first signs of grass yellowing), give the area a good watering. If we get regular rain, you might not need to, but in dry spells you simulate a rain. This watering will coax hidden weed seeds in the soil to germinate in the nicely cleared, sunlit soil. You might even see some green sneaking back in from roots or stolons that didn’t fully die on the first spray.
Around 7 to 10 days after the first spray, closely inspect your lawn. Look for any survivors – maybe a patch of hardy Bermuda grass that’s still green, or new little weed seedlings popping up. This is normal. Now, hit them again. Mix up a fresh batch of glyphosate herbicide and do a second application, targeting any areas of green growth. Many professionals plan on two applications about 1–2 weeks apart for complete kill, and for good reason: it drastically reduces the chance of any unwanted plants coming back. Hard-to-kill grasses like torpedograss or wild Bermuda often need that second dose. If everything looked completely dead at day 10, you might skip the second round, but a lot of times you’ll spot something to spray.
After the second application, wait a few more days for those last stragglers to die. By the end of roughly two weeks, your lawn should look like a patch of dry, brown, lifeless straw – perfect! (Yes, for once a completely dead lawn is a good thing.) During this time, keep foot traffic minimal to avoid compacting the soft, now-moist soil. And if a random heavy rain comes and causes any erosion or weed surge, address it as needed – you can hand-pull or spot-spray any new weeds that germinate late.
Step 4: Remove Dead Debris and Tackle Soil
Now that everything is dead and crispy, it’s time for the cleanup crew (that’s you). This step is physical labor but very rewarding, as you’ll reveal the bare earth and really start preparing for the new sod. Here’s what to do:
Rake and Remove Thatch
Using a sturdy rake (a metal garden rake is ideal), rake up the brown dead grass and weeds. Depending on how thick your old lawn was, you might be pulling up a lot of material. The goal is to remove as much of the decaying thatch, clippings, and surface roots as possible, leaving mostly exposed soil. This not only gets rid of material that could interfere with the new sod rooting, but also can physically remove some remaining weed seeds or runners. Pile up the debris and bag it or wheelbarrow it off to a compost area (just don’t compost any weeds that could reroot – discarding is safer). This is dusty work, so wearing a dust mask isn’t a bad idea.
Optional Sod Cutting
If your old lawn had very dense runners (like a tangled web of St. Augustine stolons or Bermuda rhizomes), you might choose to rent a sod cutter and literally cut out the top inch or so of the soil along with all that material. This is like shaving off the entire old lawn carpet. It ensures any dormant bits of grass are removed. However, it will leave you with a lot of soil to dispose of and can disturb the surface grade. Many DIYers skip a full sod cut if the herbicide did a good job, opting to just rake. But for extreme cases of invasive grass, it’s an extra measure of security. If you do sod-cut, you will likely need to bring in a bit of topsoil to replace what you removed and re-level the area.
Fix Grade and Soil Issues
With the surface clear, evaluate the soil. Now’s the time to level out any bumps or low spots. You can add fresh topsoil or sand to low areas and rake it smooth. The soil should be graded to gently slope away from your house (to prevent puddling). If you had to dig out any rocks or stumps (do it now if you see them!), fill those holes. Also, check the soil texture: if it’s very compacted, consider a light tilling or at least poking with a garden fork to loosen it a bit (especially if you didn’t sod-cut). Don’t overtill though – you don’t want to bring up a ton of new weed seeds from deep down. A shallow 2-3 inch mix is plenty, just to break the crust. If your soil is largely sand (common in Florida), you might mix in a layer of compost to improve water retention. If it’s mucky or clay-like, mixing in a bit of sand can help. This is also the moment to apply any soil amendments recommended by your soil test. For example, if your county extension soil test report said you need lime to raise pH or certain nutrients, spread those now and work them into the topsoil. That way, the soil is chemically balanced for the new grass. Smooth everything out afterwards with a rake so you have a nice even surface. Take your time – a well-prepped soil bed will make sod installation a breeze and ensure good contact.
Optional Pre-Plant Fertilizer
Generally, it’s not recommended to fertilize heavily right before or right after laying sod (too much fertilizer can burn new roots or leach away). But if your soil test specifically called for something like phosphorus (for root growth) or potassium, you could lightly incorporate a starter fertilizer now. Many experts actually suggest not fertilizing until the new sod has been down for 30-60 days, because sod farms often fertilize sod before harvest and the new lawn can feed off the existing nutrients initially. So, when in doubt, skip fertilizing at this stage unless instructed by a soil analysis. The focus now is weed-free, level, and moist soil – that’s the recipe.
At the end of Step 4, step back and admire your work. It might not look like much – just a bare patch of dirt – but this empty canvas is exactly what we want. You’ve successfully fallowed your lawn! All the obstacles that could have hampered your new sod (weeds, leftover thatch, uneven ground, poor soil conditions) have been dealt with. And you did it in a matter of a few weeks. Great job!
Step 5: Install Your New Sod
While technically the fallowing process is done once the site is prepped, we’d be remiss not to mention the grand finale: laying down that gorgeous new sod. After all, that’s the whole reason we fallowed in the first place! Covering sod installation in detail could be its own article, but here are the basics (assuming your sod is on hand and ready to go):
Buy Quality Sod and the Right Grass Type
Make sure you’ve chosen a grass variety that suits your yard (sun/shade, maintenance level) and that it’s fresh from a reputable farm. In Palm Beach County and most of South Florida, St. Augustine is king for lawns (it’s popular and does great in our climate), but Bermuda and Zoysia sod are also used for specific situations (Bermuda for high-traffic or sports turf, Zoysia for a fine-textured luxury lawn, etc.). Double-check that your sod delivery is the species and cultivar you ordered, and inspect it for any obvious pests or weeds. (The sod should be largely weed-free; if you happen to spot a piece with something like Bermuda grass weed in it, toss that piece – you don’t want to plant a weed back in.)
Lay Sod Efficiently
Start at a straight edge (like along a driveway or fence line) and unroll or place the sod pieces on your freshly prepped soil. Lay them tightly together, staggering the joints like bricks so you don’t have long seams lining up. Avoid walking on the sod as you lay it – work from the dirt or already-laid sections, not on top of new sod (it can sink or get disturbed). Trim pieces as needed to fit curves or sprinklers using a sharp lawn knife or edging tool. Within a few hours of delivery, you want all sod in place (don’t let pallets sit in the sun all day). If it’s a hot day, you can lightly mist the soil before laying sod to cool it down (just don’t make it muddy). Once a section is down, press it in – either with a lawn roller or simply stepping on it gently – to ensure good soil contact. You can also mound a bit of soil along the edges of sod strips to keep them from drying out.
Water, Water, Water
Be sure to water sod thoroughly following installation. The first watering should soak the sod and the top few inches of soil below. In the first two weeks, keep the sod constantly moist. This might mean watering daily or even twice a day in the South Florida sun. The fallowing period should have ensured the soil beneath is ready to absorb water nicely (especially if you loosened it). Now you just have to ensure the new grass never dries out while it’s rooting. Set irrigation timers or reminders for mornings (and check in the afternoon if it’s drying out). Generally, for the first 10-14 days, you can’t over-water new sod in sandy Florida soil – you want those roots to seek moisture and establish deep. After two weeks, you’ll start spacing out waterings to encourage deeper roots, but that’s post-fallow care.
By following these steps, you’ve effectively fallowed your lawn and set up a successful DIY sod installation. It might have taken a few weeks of patience and effort, but when you see that emerald-green carpet knitting into your yard without random weeds poking through, you’ll know it was worth it! High-five yourself for a job well done.
A Quick Note on Long-Term Fallowing
We focused on a short-term fallow process, since that’s practical for most homeowners. But you might be curious about long-term fallowing – leaving land unplanted for many months or even a year. In farming or gardening, letting soil lie fallow for an extended period can rejuvenate the land: nutrients replenish, and many pests/diseases die off due to lack of a host. Weeds can also be greatly reduced if you keep killing them as they appear. Does long-term fallowing have a place in lawn care?
For typical residential lawns in South Florida, it’s rarely necessary to fallow for more than a few weeks. Most people don’t want a bare, muddy yard for an entire season (understandably!). Plus, our climate means something will try to grow on exposed soil, so you’d be fighting weeds constantly. However, there are scenarios where a longer fallow might be helpful. For example, if a lawn area is severely infested with an aggressive weed or invasive grass, a homeowner might choose to keep it bare for a couple of months, repeatedly treating any regrowth, to truly exhaust the weed’s seed bank and roots. Another scenario is if you plan to significantly improve the soil quality – some folks might leave an area fallow for a season while adding compost, maybe planting a temporary cover crop (like a quick-growing legume) to till under and boost soil organic matter. This is more of a garden or eco-friendly approach and not common for a lawn, but it’s possible.
One form of “long-term fallow” for lawn renovation is called solarization. This is where you cover the ground with clear plastic sheeting for 4-6 weeks during the hottest part of summer, essentially cooking the soil to kill weeds, weed seeds, and even some pests. Solarization can be very effective in Florida’s sun, but it does require that long wait and the sight of plastic on your lawn for weeks. It’s an alternative if someone wants to avoid chemicals, though it’s slower and you have to re-level the soil after removing the plastic.
Long-term fallowing can amplify the benefits we discussed (fewer weeds, improved soil health), but it’s usually overkill for a normal lawn project – and impractical in a neighborhood setting. If you have the patience and your situation warrants it, you could extend your fallow period. Otherwise, rest assured that a 2-3 week fallow, done diligently, will do the job for most lawn makeovers. You’ve eliminated the major problems, and your new sod can fill in any minor issues as it grows. Now, let’s look at how you can get some help if you need it!
Ready for a Picture-Perfect Lawn? Just Call Floridist!
Tackling a lawn renovation yourself can be rewarding, but we get it – not everyone has the time, tools, or desire to play weekend warrior for a month. That’s where Floridist comes in. We’re specialists in South Florida turf, and we handle everything from fallowing the old lawn to expertly installing your new sod. Imagine skipping straight to the part where you’re admiring your gorgeous green yard (and maybe sipping a cold drink instead of wrestling with a sod cutter!). Our team knows the unique challenges of Palm Beach County lawns – whether it’s the sandy soils, the rampant South Florida weeds, or choosing the right grass variety for your home. We take care of all the prep work with professional-grade products (safe for your family and pets, of course) and proven techniques, so your new sod has the absolute best start.
Don’t risk an expensive sod installation going wrong by cutting corners. If you want it done right – with friendly experts who will treat your lawn like their own – give Floridist a call or text at 561-941-GROW. We offer a free quote and consultation for homeowners in Palm Beach County. We’ll assess your lawn’s condition, explain exactly what it needs (maybe you don’t even need full fallowing – we’ll give you honest advice), and provide a detailed plan to get you that picture-perfect lawn you deserve. There’s no pressure and no obligation – just helpful guidance from fellow Floridians who love lawns.
So why wait? Reach out to Floridist today and let’s grow something great together! Your new dream lawn is just a phone call away, and we’re excited to help you every step of the way.
References: (For the curious DIYer or anyone who likes to dig into the science behind lawn care, here are the reputable sources we drew on while writing this post.)
- University of Florida IFAS Extension – Preparing to Plant a Florida Lawn (L.E. Trenholm et al.) – Guidance on site preparation, including removing weeds and the need for multiple glyphosate applications for tough grasses edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
- University of Florida IFAS – Planting Your Florida Lawn (Gardening Solutions) – Tips on removing an old lawn with herbicide and proper site prep for new turf gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu.
- UF/IFAS Gardening in the Panhandle – Installing Sod? Remember These Ten Tips! (Daniel Leonard, 2020) – Emphasizes applying a non-selective herbicide weeks before installation to “clean” the site of weeds nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu and other useful sod installation advice.
- AvidGolfer Magazine – Ask the Superintendent: How to Prepare Your Lawn for New Sod (June 2023) – Professional turf superintendent provides a step-by-step lawn renovation outline, including two herbicide applications 7–14 days apart and using a surfactant for best results myavidgolfer.com, plus the importance of removing old roots/runners myavidgolfer.com.
- Ground Source Landscaping – 6 Things to Keep in Mind When Laying Sod in Florida (Blog) – Offers Florida-specific sod tips, like ideal timing for different grass types (e.g., October–May for St. Augustine, March–Oct for Zoysia) and the year-round viability of sod installation in Florida’s climate groundsource.pro.
- Duda Sod – Tips for Installing Sod in Your Florida Lawn – Recommends addressing pests and diseases before laying new sod and ensuring soil is properly prepared (tilled, with correct composition) to help new grass thrive duda-sod.com