Installing new sod in your yard is an exciting way to get an “instant lawn,” but keeping that sod alive and thriving requires proper watering from day one. In South Florida’s climate, newly laid St. Augustine, Zoysia, or Bermuda sod will quickly wilt or die if it’s not watered correctly. In this friendly yet professional guide, we’ll walk you through a week-by-week watering schedule (Days 1–7, 8–14, 15–21, 22–30, and beyond) and share tips on timing, checking soil moisture, seasonal adjustments, and more. With the right watering practices, your new lawn will establish deep roots and stay lush and green.
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Why Proper Watering Is Critical for New Sod
Fresh sod is highly vulnerable in the first few weeks. It has shallow roots that need constant moisture to grow into your soil. Too little water can cause dry patches, wilting, and poor root development, while too much water can lead to root rot or fungal disease. Proper watering encourages deep root growth, helps the sod knit firmly to the soil, and even builds resilience against weeds, pests, and heat. In short, watering correctly from the start will save you time, money, and hassle in the long run by ensuring your sod establishes into a healthy lawn.
Week-by-Week Watering Schedule for New Sod (Days 1–30)
Before jumping into the schedule, water your sod immediately after installation. On installation day (Day 1), give the sod a thorough soaking – water deeply until both the sod and the top 3–4 inches of soil underneath are saturated. This initial deep watering helps the sod recover from transport stress and begin bonding with your soil.
After that first soak, follow this 30-day watering plan:
| Phase | Watering Schedule (Frequency & Duration) | Key Tips |
|---|---|---|
| Days 1–7 (Week 1) | Water 2–3 times per day, about 10–15 minutes per session. (For example, morning, midday, and late afternoon.) | Keep sod constantly moist. The top inch of soil should never dry out. Avoid puddles or runoff by using shorter, frequent cycles. Best times are morning and mid-afternoon; avoid late night watering. |
| Days 8–14 (Week 2) | Water once per day for 20–30 minutes. | Taper down frequency, increase depth. A single deeper watering encourages roots to grow downward. Allow the surface to dry slightly between waterings now to start training roots to seek deeper moisture. Check that water penetrates ~4 inches into soil. |
| Days 15–21 (Week 3) | Water every other day (about 3–4 times this week) for 30–40 minutes per session. | Alternate days, water deeply. By now, the sod should be rooting into the soil. Longer sessions less often will further encourage deep roots. The sod should start to feel more secure (you’ll feel resistance if you gently tug a corner). |
| Days 22–30 (Week 4) | Water 2–3 times per week, about 30–40 minutes per session. | Gradually reach normal schedule. The lawn is nearly established. In this phase, continue deep irrigation but with multi-day gaps. Monitor sod health – it should remain green and not easily pull up. |
| After 30 Days | Water 1–2 times per week (or as needed) with deep sessions (~30–45 minutes each). Aim to deliver ~1–1½ inches of water total per week (including rainfall). | Established lawn care. Now your sod is considered an established lawn. Follow local watering restrictions and adjust frequency based on season (see next section). Water early in the morning for best results and to comply with most area rules. |
Notes on the Schedule:
Keep the Sod Moist, Not Soaked: In the first week, the goal is to keep the sod and topsoil consistently damp at all times. Water multiple times a day so that the sod never dries out. However, avoid overwatering to the point of standing water or mushy soil. If you see pooling water or squishy sod, you’re overdoing it – cut back a bit to let things dry slightly.
Morning watering is ideal
Watering between about 4 a.m. and 10 a.m. is most efficient, as cooler temperatures and calmer winds mean less evaporation. Morning irrigation also allows grass blades to dry by midday, reducing risk of fungal disease. If you need a second watering on a hot day, aim for mid-to-late afternoon (by around 4–5 p.m.) so that the grass isn’t damp overnight. Avoid watering in the heat of midday (when much of it will evaporate) and late at night. Many South Florida areas actually prohibit watering between mid-morning and late afternoon for efficiency.
Check Coverage & Edge Areas
Sprinkler coverage is often uneven. Pay special attention to sod near edges, corners, and along buildings – these areas dry out faster and may not get as much water from your sprinklers. You may need to hand-water corners or adjust sprinkler heads to ensure the entire lawn (especially those hard-to-reach spots by sidewalks or walls) stays moist. Also, if you have slopes or very sandy soil, you might see water running off before it soaks in. In that case, use the “cycle and soak” method: water in shorter back-to-back cycles (e.g. two 10-minute intervals instead of one 20-minute) to give water time to penetrate and avoid runoff.
Monitor Rooting Progress:
Around week 2, gently lift a corner of a sod piece to check for rooting. If it still lifts up easily with no resistance, the roots have not anchored yet – continue diligent watering. By week 3, you should feel resistance as you tug (meaning roots are grabbing soil). Once the sod is hard to pull up, you know it’s knitting into the ground. You can also observe the grass color and growth – a firmly rooted, healthy sod will be vigorously green and beginning to need mowing (though hold off on mowing until about 3–4 weeks after installation).
After 30 Days, Transition to Maintenance
After the first month, your watering routine should shift toward a regular maintenance schedule. At this point, the goal is to water more deeply but infrequently to maintain a healthy lawn. In South Florida, most established lawns need about 1 to 1½ inches of water per week (via irrigation or rain) during the growing season. It’s often best to split that into once or twice per week deep waterings (for example, ¾ inch twice a week). Deep, infrequent watering encourages the grass roots to grow deeper, making your lawn more drought-tolerant. Adjust this schedule based on weather (see next sections) and be sure to follow any local watering day restrictions once your exemption for new sod ends.
How to Tell If Your Sod Needs Water
Knowing when to water is just as important as how long. Rather than watering blindly, use these simple tests to gauge soil moisture:
The Screwdriver Test
Take a standard six-inch screwdriver and push it into the soil through the sod. If it slides in easily for 4–6 inches, the soil is adequately moist. If you struggle to push it in more than an inch or two, the soil is dry and needs water. Test a few spots (both sunny and shady areas) because moisture can vary across your lawn.
The Footstep (Footprint) Test:
Walk across your grass and then look at the footprints you leave. If the grass blades bounce back up quickly, they still have plenty of moisture. If your footprints remain visible (the grass stays flat where you stepped), it’s usually a sign the grass is thirsty and starting to wilt. This test is especially handy after the establishment phase when your lawn is mostly rooted – it’s a classic way to tell established St. Augustinegrass needs water (the blades will fold and footprints linger when it’s dry).
In addition, watch the color and texture of your grass. Early signs of drought stress include a bluish-gray tint to the grass and slight wilting or curling of the blades. Don’t wait until the sod turns brown to water – by that point it’s been dry too long. Checking your lawn daily, especially in the first two weeks, will help you catch these signs early. Remember: it’s better to prevent drought stress in new sod before it happens, since even a short dry spell can cause sections of new sod to die or shrink.
South Florida Seasons: Wet Season vs. Dry Season Watering
South Florida has two distinct seasons that affect how you water new sod:
Wet Season (May – October)
This is summertime in South Florida – hot, humid, and often rainy. During the wet season, afternoon thunderstorms or regular showers may provide some of the water your new sod needs. You might not need to irrigate as often if Mother Nature is doing the job, but you’ll still need to be vigilant. Monitor rainfall and your lawn’s moisture. If it rains heavily (e.g. an inch in a day), you can skip the next scheduled watering and let the soil soak it up. In fact, a good rule of thumb is that about ½ inch or more of rain can count as one of your watering “sessions” – for example, if a thunderstorm drops 0.75 inches in the afternoon, you likely can skip watering that evening or the next morning. However, do not assume rain means you’re off the hook: Florida’s showers are often hit-or-miss. Even in rainy season you can have hot dry spells of a few days. Check the sod’s moisture daily (using the tests above) and water on schedule if rain was insufficient or scattered. Also, be cautious of overwatering in the wet season – if there’s constant rain and you continue to irrigate heavily, the sod could stay too wet and develop fungus (warm, wet conditions are when lawn diseases like root rot or mildew thrive). If the ground is squishy or you see mushrooms or mold, ease up on watering. Generally, in wet season you might get to water a bit less if rainfall is frequent, but the flip side is the sod can dry out even faster in the blazing summer sun when rains don’t come. It’s a balancing act – frequently check your lawn’s moisture and adjust accordingly.
Dry Season (November – April)
The winter and spring months in South Florida are drier and slightly cooler. Rainfall drops off significantly (especially from December through April), so you won’t get as much natural help. The upside is temperatures are a bit lower and sun intensity is less extreme (especially December–February), which means water doesn’t evaporate as quickly and the sod may not dry out as fast as in July. During dry season, you should still follow the same initial 30-day schedule – assume little to no rain will fall, and be ready to irrigate consistently. With cooler nights, you might find the soil stays moist longer, so you could possibly water twice a day instead of three times in the first week if conditions are mild (monitor your sod to decide). But if a winter heat wave or windy dry spell hits, the sod could need the extra third watering. In short, don’t let the word “winter” fool you – a South Florida winter lawn can still dry out quickly on a sunny 80°F day with a breeze. After 30 days, when your sod is established, the ongoing watering frequency in dry season can usually be reduced compared to summer. Established lawns need water less often in cooler weather – perhaps once every 7–14 days in the coolest months, as growth slows. Always observe your lawn: if it’s dry and you see the footprint test failing, water, even if it’s “winter.” And if an unusual cold snap or frost occurs (rare in Palm Beach County, but not impossible), note that grass uses very little water in cold/frozen conditions – avoid watering if the ground is near freezing.
South Florida’s wet vs. dry seasons mainly affect how much help your irrigation gets from rainfall. In wet season, use rain to your advantage (let nature water the sod when it can, and don’t add water on top of a downpour). In dry season, be prepared to provide all the water yourself. But in both seasons, new sod must stay consistently moist, so watch the weather and adjust your schedule accordingly.
Weather Adjustments and Water Restrictions
Always be ready to tweak your watering based on the weather forecast and local regulations. Here are some pointers:
Rain in the Forecast
If meteorologists predict significant rain (say a strong thunderstorm or a full day of showers) on a given day, you can plan to delay or reduce watering around that time. It’s often best to wait and see if the rain actually comes and how much falls. If the expected rain comes through and gives the lawn a good soak, you can skip the next scheduled irrigation. On the other hand, if the forecasted rain fizzles out or only drops a few sprinkles, you’ll need to water as usual. A light rain might just wet the grass blades but not the soil underneath – don’t assume the soil is moist without checking. Ideally, use a rain gauge or even a simple straight-sided container to measure how much rain your yard received. This takes the guesswork out – for example, if ~0.5″ or more is in your gauge, you know the soil got a decent drink.
Drought or Extreme Heat
South Florida can experience drought periods or unusually hot weeks (even in spring). During these times, your new sod may need extra attention. If you notice the sod wilting between your normal watering times, you might need to add an extra watering session (for instance, a short midday sprinkle to cool and moisten the sod). Just be cautious: extra water in extreme heat helps, but don’t flood the lawn. It’s better to do a quick 5–10 minute cooling spray in midday if needed, rather than a deep soak, to avoid cooking the grass. Also, make sure your scheduled deep waterings are indeed penetrating enough – in drought conditions, very dry soil can become hydrophobic (repelling water). You might need to use the cycle-and-soak method to get water to absorb. Wetting agents (see next section) can also help water penetrate during droughts. Finally, during a prolonged drought, your county or city may issue tighter watering restrictions – always stay updated on any rules (e.g. mandatory cutbacks) announced during drought emergencies.
Watering Restrictions and New Sod Exemptions
In South Florida, there are year-round watering restrictions in place to conserve water. Typically, established lawns are limited to watering two or three days per week (depending on local ordinance) and not during the heat of the day (commonly no watering between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.). However, most local governments and water management districts make exceptions for new lawns/sod. These usually allow a more frequent watering schedule for a limited establishment period. For example, many areas permit any-day watering for the first 30 days after installation (sometimes with the stipulation of certain times of day), then perhaps every other day for the next 30 days, before you must revert to the regular restrictions. Always check your local county or city guidelines: you may need to apply for a new sod permit or variance or at least keep your delivery receipt as proof of recent installation. Palm Beach County and others often require following a published 30-day establishment schedule and then complying with normal restrictions The key is to know the rules so you don’t get fined – but also don’t sacrifice your sod. New sod needs that water, and local authorities understand that. If unsure, call your local water utility or extension office to clarify how to handle watering a new lawn under the rules.
Using a Rain Sensor (It’s the Law!)
In Florida, any automatic irrigation system is required by law to have a functioning rain shutoff device (rain sensor). This device will override your sprinklers when sufficient rain has fallen, preventing wasteful overwatering. Make sure your system’s rain sensor is working properly (test it by triggering it manually with water to see if it stops a scheduled watering). A rain sensor is a lifesaver in summer – if an afternoon storm drenches your lawn, the sensor will ensure your evening irrigation cycle skips itself, which protects your sod from being waterlogged. If you don’t have a built-in irrigation system and rely on hose sprinklers, consider buying a hose timer with a rain delay function or simply be prepared to turn off the water when nature provides some. Many South Florida communities offer free or rebate rain sensors and water-saving devices, so take advantage of that if available.
Smart Irrigation and Water-Saving Tips
Watering new sod doesn’t mean you have to stand around all day with a hose. Here are some tools and techniques to water efficiently and effectively:
Irrigation Controllers
If you have an in-ground sprinkler system, use its controller to your advantage. Program the schedule according to the week-by-week plan. For example, set multiple start times per day for week 1, then scale back to once daily, etc. Many modern controllers are “smart controllers” that can adjust watering based on weather data or soil moisture. These can automatically reduce watering during rainy periods or increase it during heat waves. Some even connect to your smartphone for easy changes. Utilizing a smart controller or at least frequently re-programming a standard controller as your sod progresses will ensure the sod gets what it needs without constant manual intervention.
Use Multiple Short Cycles:
Especially on Day 1 and the first week, it can be helpful to break up watering into a few short cycles (as noted earlier). For instance, instead of a single 15-minute session, do two 8-minute sessions an hour apart. This “cycle and soak” approach helps water infiltrate the soil deeply, particularly if you notice runoff or on very dry soil that might otherwise cause water to seep away. This is more of an issue if your soil has any clay or if areas are compacted. In sandy Palm Beach soils, water soaks in quickly, but in any case, multiple short cycles can ensure uniform moisture.
Rainwater Harvesting:
If you’re environmentally inclined, consider capturing some rainwater to help water your sod (though for a whole lawn, you’d need a lot). Rain barrels connected to gutter downspouts can collect water during storms, which you can later use for hand-watering dry spots or new plantings. It’s a small contribution, but every bit helps in dry season.
Wetting Agents and Polymers
For particularly dry or hydrophobic soils, or to help reduce watering needs, you might use soil additives like wetting agents or water-holding polymers. Wetting agents (surfactants) reduce soil water repellency and allow water to spread and soak more evenly – this can be useful if you have areas where water seems to run off or not penetrate well. Water retention polymers (hydrogels) are products that absorb water and release it slowly; they’re sometimes mixed into the soil before laying sod. If you (or your installer) incorporated such products, your soil might hold moisture longer, which can give you a bit of cushion if you miss a watering. While these tools are optional, they can be beneficial in sandy soil that drains very quickly. Use them as supplements to, not replacements for, proper watering. Always follow product instructions, and consider consulting a lawn care professional before application to ensure they’re appropriate for your situation.
Optimized Irrigation
Ensure your sprinklers are in good working order – check that heads aren’t clogged, misaligned, or leaking. A broken sprinkler can create a dry spot that kills a patch of new sod. Also, consider the type of sprinkler head: rotary (rotor) sprinklers vs. fixed spray heads. Rotary heads cover large areas slowly and are ideal for bigger lawns, while fixed spray heads water faster over a smaller area. The output rate differs (rotors generally put out water more slowly). Knowing this, adjust your run times accordingly (for example, a rotor zone often needs 2-3 times longer run time than a fixed spray zone to apply the same amount of water). If you see any problems (like one area of sod always dry), do an irrigation audit – place some tuna cans or cups around to measure how much water each zone is delivering in 15 minutes, and adjust coverage or time as needed to even things out.
Hand Watering & Hoses
If you don’t have an installed sprinkler system, you can still successfully water new sod with hoses and portable sprinklers – it just requires diligence. Set up a schedule to move your sprinkler around to different zones of the lawn throughout the day for week 1. You might, for instance, water the front yard in the morning and the back in the mid-morning, then again front in early afternoon, back in late afternoon, etc. Use a kitchen timer or phone alarm to remind you to move the sprinkler, so no area is missed or overwatered. It’s a bit of effort, but it’s temporary – after the first couple of weeks, you can cut back. If you find this too time-consuming, this is where an inexpensive hose timer (that attaches between your faucet and hose) can automate turning the water on and off for you. Also, Florida’s regulations allow hand watering with a shut-off nozzle anytime, even during restricted hours – so you always have the option to grab a hose and spot-water a dry patch if needed without breaking rules.
Differences in Watering for St. Augustine, Zoysia, and Bermuda
South Florida lawns are commonly planted with St. Augustinegrass, Zoysiagrass, or Bermudagrass. All three are warm-season grasses that love the heat, and the general new sod watering approach is mostly the same for all. However, there are a few subtle differences to note:
St. Augustine
This grass has broad, coarse blades and is the most widely used in Florida homes. St. Augustine needs consistent moisture and is known to be less drought-tolerant than Bermuda or Zoysia. It will show signs of water stress very quickly – blades wilting or folding, color going dull, and those obvious footprints after walking on it. So, when establishing St. Augustine sod, be extra careful not to let it dry out at all during the first couple of weeks. On the positive side, St. Augustine sod pieces usually come with a thicker layer of thatch/soil, which can hold moisture a bit better. Still, you should stick to the frequent watering schedule initially. After establishment, keep in mind St. Augustine typically needs about 1–1.5 inches of water per week during active growth to stay healthy. If you under-water it later on, it will thin out or go brown faster than the other grasses. So, err on the side of generous watering (within recommended limits) for St. Aug.
Zoysia
Zoysia grass has a finer texture and is known for being more drought-tolerant once established. In fact, some Zoysia varieties can get by with a bit less water than St. Augustine – roughly 1 inch of water per week including rainfall is often enough, as Zoysia tends to hold color better during dry spells. However, new Zoysia sod still needs frequent watering like any new sod. One thing to note is that Zoysia is a slow-grower. It may take a little longer to fully root and fill in compared to Bermuda, so don’t cut off the water too soon. Follow the full 30-day schedule; Zoysia might benefit from staying on the “week 3–4” regimen (watering every other day or 2-3x a week) for a bit longer if it’s not firmly rooted yet. Keep an eye on its progress. Once established, you might find you can water Zoysia slightly more sparingly than St. Augustine – it can handle stretching those days between waterings a bit more. But sparingly doesn’t mean neglect; Zoysia will go dormant (brown out) if extremely dry, though it can bounce back when watered again.
Bermuda
Bermuda grass has very fine blades and a dense, carpet-like growth. It roots aggressively and is known for its excellent drought resistance. New Bermuda sod can actually begin to root very quickly – you might see signs of rooting in under a week because Bermuda’s stolons and rhizomes spread fast. This means Bermuda sod might not need as many days of multi-times-per-day watering beyond the first week if you notice it’s already knitting down. Nonetheless, don’t abruptly stop watering it – follow through with the schedule, but you might be able to reduce frequency slightly sooner if the Bermuda is taking hold well (use judgement and monitor turf health). Bermuda’s drought toughness means if you accidentally miss a watering and the sod dries a bit, it has a better chance of surviving that slip-up compared to St. Augustine. Still, try not to test that – new sod is new sod, and Bermuda can also suffer if left dry too long. One caution with Bermuda: its sod pieces are often cut thinner (less soil attached) than St. Augustine’s. This can make them dry out faster on the pallet and after laying, because there’s less soil in each piece to hold moisture. That’s why immediate watering on installation is critical. Long-term, Bermuda needs about 1 inch of water per week for a green, healthy look. It can survive on less by going dormant (turning brown and waiting for rain), but it will green up again when watered. So, as an established lawn, Bermuda is the most forgiving of drought – but to keep it lush and green (say on a home lawn or sports field), regular watering is needed just like the others.
All three grass types require diligent watering during the establishment period. The week-by-week schedule given will work for St. Augustine, Zoysia, and Bermuda alike. St. Augustine might “demand” water the loudest (wilting sooner), Zoysia might be a bit more patient and thrifty with water, and Bermuda might root the fastest and endure missed water best – but don’t rely on those traits too much in the first month. Give each the water they need to develop a deep root system. After the lawn is established, you can adjust your maintenance watering to suit the grass’s character (for instance, you might water Zoysia and Bermuda less frequently than a St. Augustine lawn). Always base your watering on observation of your lawn’s condition – every site is a little different, and factors like soil type or shade can influence water needs as well.
Final Tips
Keep Off the Grass: As a friendly reminder, limit heavy activity on your new sod for the first few weeks. A lot of trampling can compact the soil and make water penetration harder, or even shift sod pieces. It’s tempting to host that backyard party on your fresh green carpet, but give it time to truly attach and root first. You can walk on it for watering and checking, just avoid rough play or mowing until it’s rooted.
Mowing and Fertilizing: Though beyond the scope of watering, note that you shouldn’t mow new sod for about 2–3 weeks (and only once it’s rooted and not squishing underfoot). Likewise, don’t rush to fertilize until around the 4–6 week mark unless a soil test indicates a need. Proper watering is your main focus during establishment – feeding and mowing come later.
Stay Patient and Consistent: The first month with new sod can feel labor-intensive, but it’s a short-lived phase. Your efforts and water bill will taper off after a few weeks. By sticking to the proper schedule now, you’re investing in a lawn that will be healthy and easier to maintain for years to come.
Ask for Help if Needed: If you’re ever unsure about your watering strategy, don’t hesitate to reach out to local resources. The University of Florida IFAS Extension in Palm Beach County can offer advice tailored to our area. Local sod farms or landscaping companies (like the one that installed your sod) are also happy to provide guidance – after all, they want their product to succeed as much as you do.
By following these guidelines, your new South Florida sod – be it St. Augustine, Zoysia, or Bermuda – should establish a strong root system and reward you with a lush, green lawn. Remember, proper watering is the key to turning those strips of sod into a beautiful, seamless landscape. Happy watering, and enjoy your new lawn!