CitraBlue is an exciting new St. Augustinegrass cultivar, released in 2018 by the University of Florida, that is quickly making a name for itself in the world of Florida lawns. As its name hints, this grass boasts a distinctive blue-green color that sets it apart from other varieties. But color is just the beginning – CitraBlue was bred to address many of the challenges homeowners face with traditional St. Augustine lawns. It offers improved shade tolerance, better disease resistance, and a dense, horizontal growth habit that helps it outcompete weeds. Developed under the guidance of Dr. Kevin Kenworthy at UF’s turfgrass breeding program, CitraBlue has been described as a “cut above the rest” for warm-season lawns. If you’re looking for a St. Augustinegrass that stays gorgeous with a bit less fuss, CitraBlue may be the sod you’ve been waiting for.
Origin and Introduction
CitraBlue (officially released as cultivar ‘FSA1602’) was born from years of breeding and testing at UF’s research facilities. It was introduced to the market in 2019, with the first sod becoming available to homeowners in spring 2020 as farms ramped up production. The name “CitraBlue” reflects its UF heritage (Citra is a town near UF’s Gainesville campus and nods to “citrus” and Florida) and the grass’s notable blue-green hue. Unlike older St. Augustine types that were often discovered by chance, CitraBlue is a scientifically developed cultivar. It was created specifically to thrive in Florida conditions – hot, humid summers, periodic droughts, and the mix of sun and shade common in residential neighborhoods.
Upon release, CitraBlue generated excitement for its promised features: handle shade better than Floratam, resist diseases like gray leaf spot and large patch, and maintain a lower profile (meaning potentially less mowing). Early adopters have been impressed by the color and thickness of a CitraBlue lawn. It has been marketed by Turfgrass Producers of Florida and Sod Solutions, ensuring quality-controlled sod is available. Given how new it is, research on CitraBlue’s long-term performance is ongoing, but early results and landscape plantings suggest it could become the go-to St. Augustine for Florida yards, especially in situations where Floratam falls short.
Growth Habits and Appearance
Perhaps the first thing you notice with CitraBlue is the color. True to its name, a healthy CitraBlue lawn has a darker blue-green shade, offering a rich, lush aesthetic. This deeper color can make a yard really “pop,” and it tends to hold its color well through the season (as long as the grass is fertilized appropriately). Beyond color, CitraBlue has a very dense growth habit. It spreads vigorously via stolons like other St. Augustines, but it tends to grow more laterally (horizontal) and not as tall. The canopy (the surface layer of grass blades) is thick, meaning when you look down at the lawn, you mostly see grass and very little soil – it forms a carpet-like mat.
The leaf blades of CitraBlue are medium-width (not as fine as a dwarf cultivar like Seville, but a tad finer than Floratam’s blades). They also have a bit of a sheen that, combined with the color, gives a CitraBlue lawn a plush appearance. Because it grows more prostrate, CitraBlue can tolerate being mowed slightly lower than standard cultivars, and it still retains density. Some sod producers even note it could be kept at 2 inches height without thinning out, though most homeowners will probably mow it a bit higher than that for safety.
One important aspect of CitraBlue’s growth: it can develop thatch if not managed, due to its heavy lateral growth and stolon production. The grass fills in so tightly that old stolons and blades can accumulate. Regular maintenance (proper mowing and not over-fertilizing) helps mitigate this. On the flip side, that same aggressive lateral growth means CitraBlue is excellent at crowding out weeds and quickly covering bare spots. If a small patch of CitraBlue is damaged, its creeping stolons usually fill it in faster than many other grasses would.
In terms of seasonal behavior, CitraBlue, like other St. Augustines, loves the warm months. It grows fast in spring and summer. Preliminary observations suggest CitraBlue might be a bit more drought-tolerant than Floratam and Palmetto – likely because of its dense root system and perhaps a genetic edge in water-use efficiency. It will still turn bluish-gray and wilt in severe drought, but it might hold on a bit longer before going dormant. In cooler weather, CitraBlue goes semi-dormant; it’s being grown as far north as the Florida Panhandle, where it will brown after frosts (similar to other St. Augustines). Its cold tolerance is believed to be on par with Floratam or slightly better, though not as high as Raleigh or other cold-hardy types. All in all, CitraBlue’s growth habit is that of a turfgrass that stays low, thick, and vibrantly colored – essentially what many homeowners desire in a lawn.
Shade Tolerance
One of CitraBlue’s headline features is its shade tolerance. St. Augustinegrass is generally the warm-season grass of choice for shaded sites, and CitraBlue was bred to push that advantage even further. In breeding trials, CitraBlue consistently performed better in reduced light than Floratam. What does this mean for your yard? It means a CitraBlue lawn can thrive in areas with partial shade or dappled light where Floratam or other sun-loving varieties would struggle.
CitraBlue still needs some sunlight – no grass will grow in deep, dark shade – but it can do well with perhaps 4-5 hours of good sunlight per day (or longer periods of lightly filtered light). For homeowners, this is a big deal if your property has lots of tree cover or the house itself casts large shadows. With CitraBlue, those formerly thin, scraggly lawn sections might stay green and thick. In fact, extension experts have noted that CitraBlue “handles shade very well” while also doing fine in full sun, making it quite versatile.
In practical terms, you might see that under moderate shade, CitraBlue maintains a higher density compared to something like Palmetto or BitterBlue (both known shade-tolerant types). It might not get as lush as it would in full sun – any grass will be a bit more sparse in shade – but CitraBlue keeps a respectable turf cover. You’ll also notice fewer disease issues in shade compared to older cultivars (which often get more fungus in shade; CitraBlue’s disease resistance helps here too).
For best results in shade, you’ll still want to help the grass by pruning trees up (to allow more light), avoiding excessive watering (shaded grass needs less water), and mowing a notch higher (giving the grass more leaf area to photosynthesize in low light). But overall, if you have a yard that’s maybe 50/50 sun and shade, CitraBlue could be an ideal choice. It effectively expands the envelope of where St. Augustinegrass can maintain a quality lawn.
Drought and Heat Tolerance
Florida’s summers not only bring heat but sometimes drought. CitraBlue has shown impressive drought tolerance for a St. Augustine. In fact, some early reports suggest it is more drought-tough than Floratam, Palmetto, and Raleigh. During breeding, selections were likely made for individuals that stayed greener longer under dry conditions. As a result, CitraBlue tends to have a deep, extensive root system that can mine water from the soil efficiently. It also has a dense canopy that might shade the soil and reduce evaporation a bit.
What you might see with a CitraBlue lawn in a dry spell is that it holds its blue-green color a bit better and doesn’t wilt as quickly. When water is truly scarce, it will eventually go off-color (all grasses will), but once watered, it recovers nicely. In terms of everyday watering needs, you might find you can water CitraBlue slightly less often than a Floratam lawn and still keep it looking good. Of course, factors like soil type and exposure also play roles. Always watch your lawn for signs of thirst (folded blades, bluish tint) to guide your irrigation schedule.
Heat tolerance is essentially a given – CitraBlue is a product of Florida’s hot climate, so 90°F days are no problem for it. It flourishes in high heat and humidity. Some anecdotal feedback suggests that CitraBlue keeps its color better in extreme heat whereas certain others might get a bit chlorotic or stressed. It’s also reported to have good fall color retention – meaning as autumn comes (and if there isn’t an early frost), CitraBlue might stay green later into the season due to its strong vigor.
One thing to note: CitraBlue does not have special salt tolerance beyond normal St. Augustine (which is moderate). If you need a grass for a coastal area with heavy salt spray or occasional saltwater flooding, CitraBlue will handle salt okay, but it wasn’t specifically bred for high salt environments (a grass like Seashore Paspalum or zoysia might be better in those rare cases). Generally, for typical inland or mild coastal home lawns, CitraBlue’s drought-hardiness and heat-loving nature make it well-suited for Florida’s summer climate.
Disease Resistance
This is where CitraBlue really shines in comparison to older St. Augustine types. One of the breeding goals for CitraBlue was to increase disease resistance, and the resulting grass has shown strong resilience to common turf diseases. If you’ve battled problems like gray leaf spot or large patch fungus on your lawn before, you know how frustrating it can be to see your grass get blemished or browning despite your best efforts. CitraBlue offers a big advantage: it has a natural resistance or tolerance to these diseases, meaning they occur less frequently and with less severity.
For example, gray leaf spot, which appears as tiny brownish gray lesions on leaves (often after rainy summer periods), tends to hit St. Augustine like Floratam or even Palmetto pretty hard if conditions are right. CitraBlue, in contrast, shows much less damage from gray leaf spot. It seems to either fend off infection or the disease just doesn’t spread as aggressively in its tissue. The same goes for large patch (brown patch), a lawn fungus that creates circular brown areas in the lawn typically in fall or spring. CitraBlue has been observed to resist large patch more effectively. And take-all root rot, a serious root disease, is also supposedly less impactful on CitraBlue.
Now, “resistant” doesn’t mean “immune.” You could still see some disease on a CitraBlue lawn, especially in highly conducive conditions (like overly wet soil, lots of shade, etc.). But the grass can often recover on its own or at least not be devastated. This can potentially reduce the need for fungicide applications, saving homeowners time and money and reducing chemical use. For those who have had lawns that practically needed a fungicide seasonally, switching to CitraBlue could break that cycle.
Another disease-related benefit: CitraBlue has not shown any particular issues with Lethal Viral Necrosis (sugarcane mosaic virus). As noted earlier, Floratam is the one that dies from that virus; other cultivars like CitraBlue might get infected but generally are asymptomatic or mildly affected. It’s comforting that CitraBlue doesn’t have any known unique disease vulnerability – if anything, it’s sturdier.
In essence, CitraBlue stays healthier with less intervention. You’ll still want to practice good lawn care (e.g., water in the mornings, not at night, to further discourage fungus; don’t over-fertilize with quick-release nitrogen, etc.), but you’ll have a much larger margin for error. A CitraBlue lawn is less likely to suddenly develop a giant dead spot from disease under your watch. This robust health is a major reason many experts are recommending CitraBlue for home lawns, especially in Florida’s fungus-friendly climate.
Insect and Pest Considerations
While CitraBlue was heavily geared toward disease resistance and shade performance, it wasn’t specifically bred for insect resistance. That means it is still susceptible to the usual insect pests of St. Augustinegrass. However, there are a couple of silver linings. First, a dense, vigorously growing CitraBlue lawn can often withstand minor insect feeding better than a thinner, weaker lawn. Also, by staying healthier (due to less disease), the grass may not get as stressed, and stressed grass is often more susceptible to pests.
Let’s talk about the key pests: Southern chinch bugs love St. Augustine and there’s no evidence that CitraBlue deters them. You will need to keep an eye out for chinch bug damage (spreading yellow patches in sunny areas, often along driveways or sidewalks first). It would be wise to maintain a preventive pest control program or at least regularly inspect the thatch for chinch bugs during warm months. That said, some turf experts feel that new cultivars like CitraBlue might, just by virtue of their genetic differences, not attract quite as many chinch bugs as Floratam (which had specific resistance that the bugs overcame – in doing so, the bug populations may be now somewhat keyed to Floratam). But this isn’t conclusive; plan on treating CitraBlue for chinch bugs if they arise.
Other pests include armyworms and sod webworms – caterpillars that chew grass blades. CitraBlue’s thick canopy can hide these critters, so look for moths flying up from the grass in the evening as a sign of possible caterpillar issues. If damage (scalloped chewed blades or small brown patches) appears, treat accordingly. Mole crickets aren’t a huge problem for most St. Augustine lawns (they prefer bahia and bermuda), but if present they can still tunnel and disturb roots. CitraBlue’s robust root system might help it tolerate some mole cricket activity, but severe infestations should be controlled.
One interesting note: a Florida IFAS blog post mentioned that some cultivars like CitraBlue and ProVista produce very little viable seed (which is true), whereas cultivars like Palmetto produce more. This matters for insects like grass feeders (e.g., certain soil insects or birds) but not much for homeowners. It basically implies CitraBlue will spread only by its stolons and not by stray seeds sprouting elsewhere (which keeps it from becoming weedy).
In short, continue standard pest management with CitraBlue. It isn’t a magic bullet against bugs, but it also doesn’t have any known extra pest susceptibility. If anything, its vigor means if you do have to treat for insects, it should recover quickly from any damage they caused. Combining CitraBlue with good lawn IPM (Integrated Pest Management) practices will result in a lawn that is both beautiful and resilient.
Recommended Mowing and Care
CitraBlue’s ability to stay a bit shorter allows for some flexibility in mowing. Recommended mowing height for CitraBlue is about 2½ to 3½ inches. Many experts suggest that because of its prostrate growth, you could maintain it on the lower end of typical St. Augustine heights. In side-by-side comparisons, CitraBlue can be mowed lower than Floratam without scalping. If you have a rotary mower, around 3 inches is a comfortable height that keeps it dense and attractive. Some lawn enthusiasts with reel mowers might even experiment at 2 inches and still have a decent result (though you’d want your soil very level for that).
The key with mowing CitraBlue is consistency. Its dense growth means if you let it grow too tall, it could get a little puffy with a risk of thatch. Regular mowing (at least once a week in the active summer growth period) will keep it in check. Because it grows somewhat slower vertically, you might find you can go a bit longer between cuts and not have a jungle – a nice perk for those with busy schedules. Always adjust mowing frequency to the season – in cooler or drier times, growth slows and you can mow less often.
Clippings from CitraBlue are usually fine to leave on the lawn (mulch mowing) since they’re not excessive if you mow frequently. Those clippings return nutrients to the soil as they decompose. Just ensure your mower blade is sharp because CitraBlue’s leaves, while not ultra-fine, benefit from a clean cut for the best look and to reduce disease entry points.
As for watering, despite its drought tolerance, you’ll water CitraBlue much like any other St. Augustine to keep it lush – roughly 1 inch of water per week (via rain or irrigation), more in hotter weeks. It’s better to water deeply and infrequently, as CitraBlue’s roots will chase after that water deep down. Overwatering (daily shallow watering) could encourage potential rot or fungus even though it’s disease resistant – no grass likes constantly soggy soil.
Fertilizer needs: CitraBlue doesn’t have special diet requirements. A typical regime might be 3-4 slow-release feedings during the growing season. Interestingly, some observations suggest CitraBlue keeps color well even at lower nitrogen levels, which implies you might not need to fertilize it as heavily to maintain that rich hue. Always follow local fertilizer ordinances and avoid summer fertilization if prohibited in your area (some counties have blackout periods). CitraBlue’s thick growth also means it responds well to micronutrients like iron; an iron application can really make that blue-green color stand out without pushing a lot of growth.
In terms of thatch management – keep an eye on the thatch layer (the spongy layer of stolons and roots above the soil). If it gets over half an inch thick, consider a late-spring vertical mowing or power-raking to thin it. Also, core aeration annually can benefit CitraBlue by reducing soil compaction and helping decomposition of thatch.
Pros of CitraBlue St. Augustinegrass
- Superior Shade Performance: Maintains a fuller, healthier lawn in partial shade conditions where other cultivars would thin out.
- Exceptional Color: Offers a striking blue-green turf color that remains vibrant, enhancing curb appeal and lawn aesthetics.
- High Disease Resistance: Shows strong resistance to common lawn diseases (gray leaf spot, large patch, take-all root rot), resulting in fewer brown patches and less need for fungicides.
- Dense, Weed-Suppressing Growth: Forms a thick, horizontal mat of grass that crowds out weeds and fills in bare spots quickly.
- Reduced Vertical Growth: Can be mowed slightly lower and potentially less often than standard St. Augustine, with less risk of scalping or stress.
- Drought Tolerance: More drought-tough than many St. Augustine varieties – stays greener longer in dry periods and bounces back well when re-watered.
- Adapted to Florida Conditions: Bred in Florida “for Florida,” meaning it’s well-suited to the state’s soils, climate, and pest pressures (a reliable performer across South, Central, and North FL).
Cons of CitraBlue St. Augustinegrass
- Limited Track Record: Being a newer variety, long-term performance and quirks are still being learned (not as much decades-long data as older cultivars).
- Availability and Cost: May not be as readily available everywhere and could be pricier per square foot initially, due to its newness and licensing.
- Potential Thatch Build-up: Its very dense, creeping growth can lead to thatch if over-fertilized or not maintained; may require occasional dethatching.
- Moderate Cold Tolerance: Not significantly more cold-hardy than Floratam – will go dormant and could be damaged by hard freezes (less of an issue in most of Florida, but worth noting in fringe areas).
- Standard Pest Susceptibility: Still needs monitoring and control for chinch bugs, webworms, and other pests – no special insect resistance is present.
- Moisture-Sensitive in Low Areas: While disease-resistant, in very waterlogged, low-lying spots, any grass can suffer – some sod producers advise not planting CitraBlue in areas that stay wet or boggy.
- No Seed Option: Like all improved St. Augustine, it’s only established by sod or plugs; you must vegetatively plant it (which is normal, but those hoping for seed will find none available).
How CitraBlue Compares to Other Cultivars
CitraBlue vs. Floratam: CitraBlue is essentially an upgrade for many situations. If Floratam is doing great in full sun and you have no issues, you might stick with it. But if you need better shade tolerance or are tired of fighting diseases on Floratam, CitraBlue offers relief. It won’t require as many treatments to keep it looking good. Floratam might grow slightly faster in ideal conditions, but that often just means more mowing and possibly more thatch. In color, Floratam is green to blue-green but CitraBlue is notably darker and richer. Most importantly, Floratam’s Achilles heel – shade and mosaic virus – are areas where CitraBlue has the upper hand (CitraBlue can live with mosaic virus and live in shade).
CitraBlue vs. Palmetto: Palmetto has been a go-to for shade and general use; CitraBlue is like the new contender. CitraBlue has a darker color (Palmetto is lighter green) and possibly stays dense in slightly heavier shade than Palmetto can handle. Disease-wise, Palmetto is moderately prone to fungus in humid weather whereas CitraBlue largely shrugs it off. Mowing needs are similar (Palmetto is semi-dwarf, CitraBlue low-growing too). Palmetto might have a slight edge in cold tolerance and has a longer history of use. If you already have Palmetto and it’s working, great – but if you’re choosing new sod and want the latest improvements, (continuation)
CitraBlue vs. Palmetto: Palmetto has been a go-to for shade and general use; CitraBlue is like the new contender on the block. CitraBlue sports a darker color (Palmetto is a lighter emerald green) and tends to stay dense in slightly heavier shade than Palmetto can handle. When it comes to disease, Palmetto can still get fungal issues in humid weather, whereas CitraBlue largely shrugs them off. Their mowing needs are similar (Palmetto is semi-dwarf, CitraBlue also has a low growth habit). Palmetto might have a slight edge in cold tolerance and certainly has a longer track record in the landscape. If you already have a Palmetto lawn that’s doing well, there may not be an urgent need to switch. But if you’re installing new sod and want the latest improvements in shade and disease performance, CitraBlue likely gives you that. It’s essentially building upon what Palmetto offers, with additional disease hardiness and a richer color.
CitraBlue vs. ProVista: Both CitraBlue and Scotts ProVista are innovative, next-generation St. Augustinegrasses, but they target different pain points. CitraBlue is about shade and disease, whereas ProVista is about reduced mowing and weed control (thanks to its glyphosate tolerance). If your main challenge is shade coverage or fighting off fungus each summer, CitraBlue is the better fit because it was bred for those scenarios. Conversely, if you’re more concerned with mowing less and easily zapping any encroaching Bermuda or torpedo grass with herbicide, ProVista could be more appealing. It’s worth noting that ProVista too has decent shade tolerance (and a dark color), but CitraBlue may still have an edge in extreme shade or purely from a “no fungus” standpoint. Some homeowners might even use a combination – for instance, ProVista in the wide-open sunny front yard and CitraBlue under the backyard oak tree – but mixing cultivars isn’t generally recommended in the same contiguous lawn due to appearance differences. Ultimately, these two cultivars represent the new directions of lawn improvement: CitraBlue aims to minimize problems, and ProVista aims to minimize effort.
It’s also useful to compare CitraBlue to a classic shade-tolerant dwarf like Seville St. Augustine. Seville has fine blades and excels in shade, but it thatches quickly and is prone to insect damage, requiring careful maintenance and low mowing heights. CitraBlue offers near-Seville-level shade performance with a lot less hassle (you can mow it higher and it’s more robust). So for those considering a dwarf grass to handle shade, CitraBlue might achieve the goal with fewer of the dwarf grass drawbacks.
In summary, CitraBlue stands out when your lawn conditions or past problems call for a tougher, more shade-capable grass. It keeps the general look and feel of a traditional St. Augustine lawn (in fact, many would say it looks even lusher) while solving many of the issues that typically plague such lawns. It’s rapidly becoming the benchmark to which others are compared for lawns that require resilience.
Additional Insights for Homeowners
- Availability: As a newer cultivar, ensure you source CitraBlue from a reputable, licensed sod grower. It is becoming widely available in Florida through sod farms affiliated with the Turfgrass Producers of Florida. You might have to call around a bit more than you would for Floratam, but demand is high and production is increasing. Given it’s patented and trademarked, avoid any “no-name” St. Augustine sod for fear it might not truly be CitraBlue.
- Certified Sod: One interesting aspect – CitraBlue is currently the only St. Augustine cultivar in Florida sold under a statewide certification program. That means sod fields are inspected to ensure genetic purity and freedom from weeds/other grasses. When you buy certified CitraBlue, you can be confident you’re getting pure, top-quality grass with no mysterious off-types mixed in. This is a big plus for uniformity and long-term lawn quality.
- Installation and Establishment: Laying CitraBlue sod is like any St. Augustine – make sure soil is tilled and leveled, pieces are tightly fitted, and water it frequently (multiple times a day lightly) for the first 10–14 days until rooted. CitraBlue’s aggressive stolons will knit the seams together quickly. Because of its density, be diligent during establishment that edges of sod don’t dry out – the thick grass can sometimes prevent water from seeping into the cracks, so water a little extra at the joints initially.
- Mowing and Thatch Management: Once established, choose a mower height and stick with it. Most homeowners mowing at ~3 inches find CitraBlue stays like a thick green carpet. If you notice it getting thatchy or spongy over time (after a couple of seasons), you can plan a late spring de-thatching or hire a lawn service to verticut it. Keeping the mowing height on the lower end of recommended (but not scalping) can also naturally reduce thatch. And because you might be mowing a bit less often, remember to still inspect the mower blades – sharp blades are key to maintaining that clean, beautiful cut on CitraBlue’s leaves.
- Fertilizing Wisely: CitraBlue doesn’t need excessive fertilizer to maintain color. In fact, over-fertilizing can cause it to grow too fast and soft, which can actually negate some of its disease resistance (even a robust grass can get fungus if pushed with lots of nitrogen in muggy weather). Follow a moderate fertilization schedule; you might find you can err on the lighter side and still have a gorgeous lawn. The deep color often comes through even with modest feeding.
- Pest Watch: Don’t become complacent thinking CitraBlue is problem-proof. Its improved traits certainly reduce headaches, but you’ll still want to do the normal lawn TLC. Keep an eye out for insect pests as discussed. The good news is, with fewer disease worries, you can focus your attention on just mowing, watering, and occasional bug patrol. Many homeowners with CitraBlue have reported far fewer “uh-oh” moments when walking the lawn – it tends to look good consistently.
- Ideal Use Cases: CitraBlue is perfect for home lawns that have a mix of sun and shade, homeowners who have struggled with lawn diseases in the past, or anyone who simply desires a stunning-looking lawn with potentially fewer chemical inputs. It’s being used in residential developments, parks, and even some golf course roughs/tee areas where its color contrast and low upkeep are valued.
- Winter Outlook: Expect your CitraBlue lawn to slow down in late fall. It may hold green a bit longer into the cool season than a Floratam lawn would, especially if fall conditions are dry (less large patch risk). In North Florida, it will go brown after a hard freeze, but should green up nicely come spring. Its spring green-up rate is considered “average to good” – not as early as a ryegrass or some cold-season grass, but solid for a St. Augustine. A light application of fertilizer as weather warms will help wake it up.
As a homeowner, switching to or starting with CitraBlue can feel like getting an upgrade for your lawn. You’ll still do the normal maintenance, but you might find you’re not constantly fighting nature – the grass is naturally more aligned with the environment. The payoff is a lawn that stays thick, dark green, and attractive with fewer interventions. Keep an eye on this cultivar as it continues to prove itself; it’s quite possible that in a few years, CitraBlue will be the predominant choice for Florida lawns, and you’ll have been ahead of the curve enjoying its benefits.